Wednesday, 19 November 2014

Research Club Culture

London
Having lived in London myself its the hub for creatives everywhere, the streets of London covered in street art, clubs round every corner and fashion, art and music absorbing into every restaurant, bar and shop. I feel this is a good starting point to gain some inspiration from London in general the club culture vibe is within the city day and night.




Johns, M. (2014). Club Culture. [online] Pinterest. Available at: • http://www.pinterest.com/milliejohns/club-culture/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].

One thing i further remember always being inspired by was the club posters having been used to black backgrounds and images of half naked girls to advertise clubs. London's art school club scene promotes there club nights combining art with interesting graphic prints and typography. Below are a few posters from clubs were i used to go.
Image from Private  facebook Page 

Image from Private Facebook Page 


Borup, C. (2014). Fabric by Tom Darracott | bumbumbum. [online] Bumbumbum.me. Available at: http://bumbumbum.me/2011/05/10/fabric-by-tom-darracott/ [Accessed 19 Nov. 2014].
Party Monster 

how to be fabulous!. (2014). [Blog] Available at: http://cecyyyoung.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/how-to-be-fabulous.html [Accessed 19 Nov. 2014].
After having watched party monster a film about the outrageous Club Kids of New York within the 80's and 90's highly powered by drugs the flamboyance and extreme costumes they wore to party in various places within the city including: trucks, fast food restaurants, trains and many more. I felt this film explored the blasé attitudes of these club kids within what they wore and life in general just out to have a good time.

I styling i found interesting as there was never a particular theme within most of the costumes i found myself questioning what the theme of the outfit was. Within the main characters i felt there was more of a theme to there looks consisting of a lot of sparkle and over applied makeup. As shown below taking inspiration from a toy robot and a nurse and doctors theme party these were easterly recognisable although glitter was always added to the look to create the extra club kids vibe.

Salon.com, (2014). “Party Monster”. [online] Available at: http://www.salon.com/2003/09/05/party_monster/ [Accessed 19 Nov. 2014].



References: 

Google.co.uk, (2014). party monster - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=party+monster&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&gfe_rd=cr&ei=uftsVPD2GOHH8gfzzIHYBg [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Google.co.uk, (2014). party monster - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=party+monster&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=uftsVL3-I4z1aoT3gNAM&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=586#rls=en&tbm=isch&q=party%20monster%20makeup&revid=1617236979&imgdii=_ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Jessijaejoplin.buzznet.com, (2014). Fashion In Film Volume 10: Party Monster - NYC Club Kids Fashion. [online] Available at: http://jessijaejoplin.buzznet.com/photos/partymonster/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Icons & Divas  

A few icons and divas of club culture from the originals to the current.

I thought i would start with Michale Alig the co founding member of the Club Kids and  James St James a long life friend these two were major icons of the New York club kids scene within the 90's and inspired the film Party Monster. They pushed conventions of gender, normal dress and behaviour within the 90's.



References: 

miachael alig. (2014). [image] Available at: http://pictify.com/85399/portrait-of-michael-alig [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].

Google.co.uk, (2014). james st james - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=james+st+james&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=hYlsVPngFNfvapitgYAJ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=586#rls=en&tbm=isch&q=james%20st%20james%20young&revid=1658965018&facrc=_&imgdii=_ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Google.co.uk, (2014). michael alig - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=michael+alig&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=n4psVNePOIrxaubdgbgD&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=586#facrc=_&imgdii=_ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Introducing the Club Kids. (2014). [online] Available at: http://marcosbatuecas.tumblr.com/post/5199813830/introducing-the-club-kids [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Johns, M. (2014). Club Culture. [online] Pinterest. Available at: • http://www.pinterest.com/milliejohns/club-culture/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Amanda Lepore another of the original Club kids was known in the New York party scene to be the most famous transexual and has now appeared in many advertisements including M.A.C, Swatch and The blondes to name a few. She is known to be the muse of artist and photographer David Lachapelle featuring in many of his images.

David Lachapelle 
David Lachapelle an American Artist and Photographer  originally working with Andy Warhol used Amanda Lepore Within many of his pieces. Amanda appeared in his collection 'Artist and Prostitutes' 1985-2005. 

I like the use of colour within these images the brightness of the colour and light within the images reminds me of the Club Kids outfits is a similar colour pallet.



References: 
Google.co.uk, (2014). amanda lepore club kids - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=amanda+lepore+club+kids&client=safari&rls=en&biw=1280&bih=586&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=SI1sVNbSHZLsaJyWgLgH&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#imgdii=_&imgrc=c_Wqj8CIJyQ_1M%253A%3Be-0h6cbOO9amHM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmedia.tumblr.com%252Ftumblr_lkown0ulj41qgmzsy.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmarcosbatuecas.tumblr.com%252Fpost%252F5199813830%252Fintroducing-the-club-kids%3B400%3B300 [Accessed 19 Nov. 2014].
Lachapelle, D. (2014). About - David LaChapelle. [online] Davidlachapelle.com. Available at: http://www.davidlachapelle.com/about/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Lachapelle, D. (2014). Amanda Lepore: Addicted to Diamonds - 1997 - David LaChapelle. [online] Davidlachapelle.com. Available at: http://www.davidlachapelle.com/series/amanda-lepore-addicted-to-diamonds/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Lachapelle, D. (2014). LaChapelle Studio - Portraits - Amanda Lepore. [online] Lachapellestudio.com. Available at: http://www.lachapellestudio.com/portraits/amanda-lepore/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Lachapelle, D. (2014). Series - David LaChapelle. [online] Davidlachapelle.com. Available at: http://www.davidlachapelle.com/series/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Whitelocks, S. (2014). Celebrated transsexual party-goer on about her 'painful' transition. [online] Mail Online. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2543449/Ive-got-expensive-body-earth-Celebrated-transsexual-party-goer-speaks-painful-transformation-including-breaking-lower-ribs-look-thinner.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
David Lachapelle & M.A.C:  Instore Advertisement Videos

Heatherette MAC Cosmetics In store video staring Amanda Lepore Directed by David Lacheplle. (2014). [image] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4eX8hUQSLY [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
David Bowie an English singer songwriter, multi instrumentalist, actor and arranger is known as an inventor particularly from his work in the 70's. Bowie is further known for is androgynous beauty an iconic element to his image. Having come out as gay then bisexual and hetrosexual Bowies sexual orientation was questionable. His styling was flamboyant, extrovert and energetic. I love the lightning image below the compliment with the makeup and hair and further within the other image Bowies beauty is admirable.


Leigh Bowery a London based Australian performance artistclub promoteractorpop starmodel, and fashion designer. Bowery is considered one of the more influential figures in the 1980s and 1990s London and New York City art and fashion circles influencing a generation of artists and designers. His influence reached through the fashion, club and art worlds to impact, amongst others, Meadham Kirchhoff, Alexander McQueenLucian FreudVivienne WestwoodBoy GeorgeAntony and the JohnsonsLady GagaJohn Galliano, theScissor SistersDavid LaChapelleLady Bunny plus numerous Nu-Rave bands and nightclubs in London and New York City which arguably perpetuated his avant garde ideas.


'The extraordinary costumes he created for himself played on fashion, fetishism and carnival aesthetics and transformed his sixteen stones of flesh into an androgynous spectacle. Bowery used his body to construct an identity through which he could express aspects of his personality. This involved moulding and taping his torso, often quite masochistically, as though it were his scuptural material and masking his face or covering it with outlandish makeup.'

-Tate, (1991). Lucian Freud, 'Leigh Bowery' 1991. [online] Available at: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/freud-leigh-bowery-t06834 [Accessed 19 Nov. 2014].

‘I found him perfectly beautiful’ 

Lucian Freud 

Alexander McQueen & Vivienne westwood have further taken inspiration from Leigh Bowery's flamboyant style : the lip shape and colour within the complexion of the McQueen look quite obviously  inspired by Bowery's oversize lips that he used to puncture through his own skin to attach and with Vivienne's look from the bold colours within the image of Bowery next to it. 


References
Dromemagazine.com, (2014). XTRAVAGANZA :: STAGING LEIGH BOWERY | DROME magazine. [online] Available at: http://www.dromemagazine.com/xtravaganza-staging-leigh-bowery/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Google.co.uk, (2014). leigh bowery - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=leigh+bowery&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=oVN2VPqeGuud7gaNlIDwBw&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1234&bih=586 [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Pawlok.com, (2014). Werner Pawlok :: Photographer :: Leigh Bowery #1971. [online] Available at: http://www.pawlok.com/pictures/werner-pawlok-photographer-leigh-bowery-1971-1459.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Pinterest, (2014). Leigh Bowery. [online] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/gilesaston/leigh-bowery/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].

Photographers & Makeup Artists 

Below are a few Photographers and makeup artists that have inspired me for this project.

Helmut Newton was a German Australian Photographer is work mainly published with Vogue  and many other big publications his erotically charged black and white provocative fashion images were recognised by many.


References: 

beauty delux, (2012). kiss by helmut newton LA. [online] Available at: http://beautydelux.com/2012/04/27/a-kiss-is-still-a-kiss/kiss-by-helmut-newton-la/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Google.co.uk, (2014). helmut newton - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=helmut+newton&client=safari&rls=en&biw=1280&bih=586&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=W6RsVIrgC42jyAT0nYLIBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#rls=en&tbm=isch&q=helmut%20newton%20androgyny&revid=1395719090&imgdii=_ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Google.co.uk, (2014). helmut newton - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=helmut+newton&client=safari&rls=en&biw=1280&bih=586&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=W6RsVIrgC42jyAT0nYLIBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#imgdii=_ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Orangeintense.blogspot.co.uk, (2010). J¡v∑ †¡M∂§: Helmut Newton | Yves Saint Laurent 1975. [online] Available at: http://orangeintense.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/helmut-newton-yves-saint-laurent-1975.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Vogue, (2014). Helmut Newton - Vogue. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/tag/photographer/helmut-newton/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].

I am interested in the intimate element within Newtons images, the sexuality of the images to me connects to the club culture the idea of many sweaty bodies in a club, a place thats know to find lovers for the night. Newtons work has inspired me when looking at the atmosphere his images create. I further chose the images above as they portray this to me, i particularly like the androgynous image top left the women dressed as a man explores an interesting element to considered when looking at my diesgn for club culture meets Cabaret.

Guy Bourdin French fashion photographer known for his provocative fashion images. 

"At the heart of Guy Bourdin’s fashion photographs is a confrontation with the very nature of commercial image making. While conventional fashion images make beauty and clothing their central elements, Bourdin’s photographs offer a radical alternative.'

-Wikipedia, (2014). Guy Bourdin. [online] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guy_Bourdin [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].







References: 
Daniel, S. (2013). Photographic Memory: François Nars on Guy Bourdin and how his photography inspired a high-wattage holiday collection. [online] FASHION Magazine. Available at: http://www.fashionmagazine.com/beauty/2013/11/08/nars-guy-bourdin-holiday-collection/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Fcoenenwiner.typepad.com, (2010). Guy Bourdin - Mad As The Winds. [online] Available at: http://fcoenenwiner.typepad.com/blog/2010/02/guy-bourdin-.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Theredlist.com, (2014). Bourdin, Guy : Photography, History. [online] Available at: http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-16-601-793-view-fashion-1-profile-bourdin.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
The images above remind me of the provocative intimate element within Helmut Newtons images again the intimacy portrays the element within club culture i want to explore more. I like that within each image there is an interesting element for example going down from the top: the block colour frames the subject, the per spec glass table exposing the model, the red blood like colour on the floor, models laying down with legs up and the hair is placed unusually upwards not naturally were the hair would sit. Using unusual and interesting elements like this is similar to the icons and divas the way they explore and portray an off place interesting aspect to themselves. 

Wolfgang Tillmans German photographer and turner prize winner. 


'This sense of ease and fluidity pervades his work - with all its high colour and dirty 'realism''

-vols, W. (2012). Wolfgang Tillmans: 3 vols | Art | Wallpaper* Magazine. [online] Wallpaper.com. Available at: http://www.wallpaper.com/art/wolfgang-tillmans-3-vols/5576 [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].


I love the term used above for these images 'dirty realism' this is exactly what is portrayed the grit and realness within life, not bright colours, sparkle high exposer or air brushing just a pure captured image. This inspires me to think that although Tillmans images and Newtons images explore similar subjects the images portray such different presentations of them. 


References: 

Americansuburbx.com, (2014). ASX.TV: Wolfgang Tillmans – “Contacts Vol. 3″ | AMERICAN SUBURB X. [online] Available at: http://www.americansuburbx.com/2009/10/asx-tv-wolfgang-tillmans-contacts-vol-3.html/asx-tv-wolfgang-tillmans-contacts-vol-3-2 [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Moussemagazine.it, (2014). Wolfgang Tillmans “central nervous system” at Maureen Paley, London / MOUSSE CONTEMPORARY ART MAGAZINE. [online] Available at: http://moussemagazine.it/wtillmans-maureenpaley/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Rickyday.net, (2014). Urban Pop Life. [online] Available at: http://rickyday.net/blog/2009/08/artist_profile_wolfgang_tillma.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Tillmans.co.uk, (2014). home. [online] Available at: http://tillmans.co.uk [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014.]

Topolino a makeup Artist, i love these two works of his the placing of the makeup is key within the right image, keeping it to two bold shapes creates more impact further again using the makeup over the lip line very similarly to Leigh Bowery. The left image is very reminiscent of something you could see in Party Monster the over use of glitter almost like a mask creates an illusion of gender.

References: 

Kids, T. (2014). topolino. [online] Theblitzkids.com. Available at: http://www.theblitzkids.com/site_archive/sharahmakeup/topolino.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Topolino, (2014). [image] Available at: http://www.laurahuntmakeup.com/index.php/2012/04/inspirational-make-up-artists-topolino/topo25-5667/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Marla Belt a Make-up artist often working on shoots for Teen Vogue and magazines alike, her work explores the use of colour and texture pushing boundaries within the concept of makeup application. The images i have chosen i feel portray the club culture vibes the use of the makeup mirroring the lighting creates a club atmosphere. I further love the image on the bottom left with the magazine print on to forehead the contrast between this and the gloss brow mirroring the black under the eye the placement is very practise this is what makes the overall look work so well.



References: 
Lipstick, E. (2014). Eye Candy by Ben Hassett and Marla Belt for Teen Vogue October 2014. [online] Eyeshadow Lipstick. Available at: http://www.eyeshadowlipstick.com/27122/eye-candy-ben-hassett-marla-belt-teen-vogue-october-2014/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].

Lipstick, E. (2014). Karlie Kloss Cover Story for L’express Styles Magazine 23 April 2014. [online] Eyeshadow Lipstick. Available at: http://www.eyeshadowlipstick.com/23972/karlie-kloss-cover-story-lexpress-styles-magazine-23-april-2014/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Requestmodelsblog.com, (2014). request models » Marla Belt. [online] Available at: http://requestmodelsblog.com/tag/marla-belt/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].
Alice Ghendrih a makeup artist working mainly in Paris taking inspiration from many different sources.

These images below i feel are very Cabaret inspired the 1930's brow shape and eye contour although using the texture of the brows adds a more modern take on the 30's look. I like the Stage look of the other image.


References: 
Pro, L. (2014). ArtList - Make Up - Alice Ghendrih - Beauty. [online] Artlistparis.com. Available at: http://www.artlistparis.com/make-up/alice-ghendrih/beauty [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].

Pro, L. (2014). ArtList - Make Up - Alice Ghendrih - Beauty. [online] Artlistparis.com. Available at: http://www.artlistparis.com/make-up/alice-ghendrih/beauty/50d32190-0598-4c17-942b-74990acce71d [Accessed 26 Nov. 2014].

Magazines 
Many magazines have taken inspiration from club culture, using bright colours, varied textures and loud prints within styling, hair and makeup to covey a current extrovert image. 

i.D
 LOVE 

Dazed & 
Confused


I love the use of lips within these Dazed and confused covers this is very similar to icons such as David Bowery and Michale Algi's pushing conventions of how makeup is used and were. 







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