1920's Finger wave bob

I created this classic 1920's bob style with a finger wave at the front on my partner, although she had short hair i wanted to exaggerate this. I found the technique quick and very effective. I felt that i could have created more of a sleek back style and on the left hand side it wasn't as sleek at the finger wave on the right. My feedback was that the bobs side profile from the right was very aesthetically pleasing with the progression in hight going shorter at the back and longer at the fount i didn't get the same effect on the left.

Bobs & Finger Waves: Practical

In this lesson we learnt how to create a bob from very long hair and the classic 1920's Finger wave.

Products: 

• tongs 
• towel to put the tongs onto 
• heat defence
• pin tail comb 
• soft tooth brush 
• hair spray 
• bobbie pins
• silver clips 
• Vita point- leave in conditioner use as a smoothing product
• Hair net

Step 1: 

Section the hair from the crown and around to the back of the ears clip the hair underneath out of the way. Section the parting from the side to the crown and across the back at the crown line. 

Step 2: 

Section diagonally from the front of the head to the parting and tong away from the face pinning into place with a sliver clip when done-these are easier to get out after and don't ruin the curl, Section the next section into 2 parts in the same direction, after this take the last section in the triangle shape and tong, the hair can then be tonged down until the hair is all used up. Repeat this on the other side and with the hair at the back of the crown. 

Step 3: 

Taking the hair preciously clipped out of place begin to backcomb to get volume, tuck the hair under and pin into place. Once the curls have cooled at the back take a pin tail comb and separate the curls to create a layer over the bob shape just made pin again underneath to tuck hair in and under. 

Step 4: 

The Finger Wave at the front of the style, taking out all the clips take your soft brush and brush through the curls add a small amount of Vita Point into your palms and massage into the hair brush this through the hair will them become a lot less frizzy. brushing in the direction that you curled begin to arrange the hair into the wave, bobbie pins can be used woven through if parts of the wave don't stay. 

Step 5: 

tuck the ends under if left and hair spray. 

Characterisation of Sally

I wanted to explore more how i can turn my ideas into a characterisation of sally, i want to look at the portrayal of distress, hunger, sadness within hair and makeup and how i can develop this to fit my interpretation of Sally.

Johns, M. (2014). Sally. [online] Pinterest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/sally/ [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

I have created this mood board looking into different ways i can create the distressed look though the make up i further took into consideration form the feedback on my presentation that shimmer was more a popularity in the 20's 30's than glitter. I eye in the middle of the board i feel portrays that distressed look while still having the beauty element within it with the shimmer and high gloss this could be an element to look at through my designs. I collected further images of tiered eyes and gaunt faces both using makeup and naturally as this is something i would like to incorporate into my designs.

I feel that creating that contrast with reality and glamour is a lot easier within the makeup designs as i create that distressed look then over exaggerate the makeup to balance out that idea that Sally dose not want to face the reality of life. When exploring this through the hair i feel i am finding it harder as i don't want the hair style to be messy or unkept i want her hair to look very sleek and polished as though she has spent a lot of time on it before her return performance.

20's & 30's Makeup & Hair

Makeup took off again in the mid 20's more affordable makeup brands were coming into the market and the everyday woman began to use make up it became more socially acceptable as previously makeup was only worn by tarts and stage performers. On screen beauties began to promote makeup and actresses like Greta Garbo became huge icons, women would replicate there makeup looks on them selves. 

Complexion was seen as an important part of beauty face powders were used to gain coverage and rouge blushers in various colours of pink were used on the apples of the cheeks these were either powders or cream based products. 

Eye shadows were very popular either blues or purples were used all over the lid underneath and in the crease, pencils were further used across the lash line to define and create that wide eyed look. Mascara was a fairly new product and was used to darken and widen the lashes. 

Lip shapes were popular to be a cupids bow shape on the top lip and the lower lip to have that pinched in affect to create the look of a smaller rounder mouth shape using darker red tones. 

Long and thin eyebrows were the film start look for the ’20s. There were two ways to get the look: pluck them thin and pencil in, or pluck/shave the brows off and draw on the brows in pencil, creating whatever shape or look one required. Clara Bow‘s an actress known for her red hair penciled brows were sometimes drawn on lower than her natural brow. Being wide set and sloping down, these brows created the mournful ‘doe eyed’ look. It was fashionable to draw the ends of the brows beyond the natural brow, and slopping down.

After the first world war women began to rebel against societies normality's of womens appearance, having lost so many men in the war there was a 'live for now' attitude, women were allowed to vote in America and England, had worked in factories and were venturing further due to the motorcar. There was a huge surge of young independent women this influenced the hair styles of the time, getting there hair cut short was a way of disregarding the original ideas from the Victorians that women's hair should be long. This created a surge in the bob, in the 20's very sharp cut bobs were fashionable and they softened at the 30's approached. The side parting was a very prominent part of the bob styles. 

'kiss curl (spit curl) – a strategically placed curl (or collection of curls) from the parting onto the forehead. Curls softened a hard cut or added a touch of feminism, and could be seen below the brim of a cloche hat. Rumour suggests that the number of kiss curls equated to the number of times a girl had been kissed by different boys. Curls were set with soap, homemade gels or a shop-bought product.'

Curls, Finger Waves and Accessories within the hair also was very popular in the 20's and 30's. The Kirby grip was invented these were very expensive but used to keep the bob style in place. Bands were used around the front of the head and developed into a wider section of material often well embellished.

'Egypt and the Exotic The love for all things exotic can be seen throughout the decade. The discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb by Howard Carter in 1922 was a huge influence on art, architecture, fashion, films and jewellery Art Deco owes much to Carter’s discovery. Jewelled headbands were designed with an ancient Egyptian look to them and one style of blunt-cut bob with a wispy fringe was called the Egyptian Bob, inspired by the hairstyles seen in Egyptian art.'
-http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1920s-hairstyles/

References: 

Google.co.uk, (2014). clara bow - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=clara+bow&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=QzNOVIDeL8TQ7AaJhoCoCQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1284&bih=607 [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

Google.co.uk, (2014). greta garbo - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=greta+garbo&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HS9OVPrQFcer7AafuYDQAg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ#rls=en&tbm=isch&q=greta+garbo+20%27s [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

Google.co.uk, (2014). greta garbo - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=greta+garbo&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HS9OVPrQFcer7AafuYDQAg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1920s-makeup/

http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1920s-hairstyles/

Johns, M. (2014). Sally. [online] Pinterest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/sally/ [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

Presentation feedback

• Hair needs to be looked at in further details in relation to my design 
• glitter wasn't popular in the 20's/30's as it was black and white film it would have looked like dots a high shin was very popular within this era. 
• Create a high contrast between mat and gloss 
• Look more at eye brow shapes 
• Research how you can look distressed how you can portray this through the design. 
• Characterisation NOT fashion 

I found this feedback very helpful i feel that it has enabled me to see were i currently am at and what i can now go on to do to develop and finalise my characterisation of Sally Bowles. I realised through this feedback that it is a characterisation and i need to make sure that my design is characterising Sally rather than a fashion interpretation this is were i feel at the moment my design is in the fashion bracket. I want to look deeper into how i can develop my design to really portray that contrast between reality and glamour and how to project distress onto the Sally deign in both hair and makeup. I will research further into classic makeup of the 20's/30's so i can get an idea of what they were using in the time to create a well though out historically correct design for my characterisation of Sally. 

Anita Berber: Continuity

For our practical lesson we have been set a task ask a makeup artist and hair designer create a look for the sitting for Otto Dix's famous painting of her. 

I have already done a little research on Anita Berber previously in relation to her social status in Weimar Berlin. She was a huge influence in the cabaret world being the first dancer to dance naked on stage. She was known for her open bisexuality and flaunted sex, drugs and drink as part of her every day life. Having been known to drink a whole bottle of contact in 1 hour while applying her makeup before her performance.

Within Otto Dix's painting she is pictured as see below to be wearing a lot of eye makeup and very pointed dark red lipstick her hair and dress also pictured in that deep red tone to symbolise her sexuality and devil like qualities this almost makes her seam powerful within the painting the overwhelming red is a luring into hell. 

Although this is how she looked within the painting by Otto Dix my interpretation of her would be very different i imagine her to be a lot more messy and dirty. From the painting my inspirations come from the dark eye makeup almost trying to cover up last nights antics. 

Johns, M. (2014). Sally. [online] Pinterest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/sally/ [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

I have created mood boards for inspirations in both the hair and makeup on my Pintrest- http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/anita-berber/ keeping within the 1930's style but adding a slight contemporary twist to fit my interpretation of Anita. I imagine that she would be tiered just come from sleeping around or at a club dancing until the early hours. I picture her to have dark very short hair, taking the inspiration from the image above i wanted to incorporate dark eyes, in the mood board below i have collected images of shiny, gloss look dark eyes i am interested to use this effect to me this symbolises a sweaty eye makeup from the night before i want it to look very layered and smudged i feel that not keeping that perfect look will be quicker to achieve in the 45 minute time set. As i was looking at a very dark smudge gloss look eye i wanted to keep the lip subtle i image that all her lipstick would have a red glossy effect taking inspiration from the colours within the painting although not fresh i want to keep that dirty feel. Furthermore i want to hollow out her cheek bones to give that wasting away look, as though she hasn't eaten in a while from all her partying. 

Keeping in mind our 45 minute time allowance i wanted to keep the hair simple yet effective and true to that of the 20's and 30's when looking at images of Anita i found that she was wearing a lot of head wear either, headbands, hats or beading headwear. I want to look at using a headband style as pictured below as i feel that its not to glamorous and is in keeping with the era. I want to keep the hair very short and dark true to the original Anita Berber but i want the style like the eyes to be slightly wet and greasy.  In keeping with the 30's style i want to have a side parting and create kiss curls around the face but have these slightly frizzy as though they have fallen out slightly from the night before the sitting.

Face Chart

Products:

Illamasqua matt primer 

Illamasqua White foundation 

Kryolan foundation- alabaster, G177, FS38

Illamasqua blush- ambition 

Kryolan: Cigar, Charcoal 

Bare Minerals: smash hit eye 

Naked 2 Pallet: black 

Moxie: game changer, stunner 

False lash effect 

Sleek Brow pallet 

 Hair Chart 

Products: 

Dax gel

Tresemme Hair spray 

Flat Pins 

Bun pins 

Pin tail comb 

Curler 

Headband/gem 

Instructions 

Hair
Step 1: section  from behind the ears and pin out of the way gather the rest into a small pony tail and tuck under pinning into place. Tie around headband and place gem in the centre of the band.

Step 2: curl the longer parts at the front sectioning into two parts on each side (4 curls, 2 each side) comb through fringe, allowing curls to cool apply dax and hairspray onto the curls pin curling into place and pin hiding the pin underneath the head band.

Makeup
Step 1: apply the primer and foundation covering the face and neck, powder over will the illamasqua translucent, apply kryolan eye pallet colour cigar into the cheek bones and under the eye defining further with charcoal.

Step 2: under the eye apply into the inner corners Bare Minerals smash hit to create the red tiered look. blend all over and underneath the lid with charcoal extending the underneath line further than the lash line. Mixing stunner and black from Naked 2 pallet blend into the lash line and creese to create definition and a messy look. Blend this down on the right to create one tear and smudge the eye on the left. Apply mascara.

Step 3: apply game changer all over the lip layering to create a thick glossy effect, block out the brows with foundation and along the top of the brow apply a thin line.

Continuity 1 

Continuity 2

I feel that my continuity was correct and the final two looks from each week look very similar i feel that my design encompassed a very messy look so trying to recreate this was hard in the makeup as i was trying to get the same effect as previously also using a lip gloss on the eye created a good effect but for continuity it wasn't ideal the gloss moved very quickly and gathered in places naturally to re creating this was hard. My models hair was damp on the second week and i feel this effected the pin curls at the side it made the hair very heavy and harder to handle were as in the first attempt i felt i was able to create the pin curls better. I feel that in consideration of the design i need to think more precisely about the products and application for something that will be recreated.