Anita Berber: Continuity

For our practical lesson we have been set a task ask a makeup artist and hair designer create a look for the sitting for Otto Dix's famous painting of her. 

I have already done a little research on Anita Berber previously in relation to her social status in Weimar Berlin. She was a huge influence in the cabaret world being the first dancer to dance naked on stage. She was known for her open bisexuality and flaunted sex, drugs and drink as part of her every day life. Having been known to drink a whole bottle of contact in 1 hour while applying her makeup before her performance.

Within Otto Dix's painting she is pictured as see below to be wearing a lot of eye makeup and very pointed dark red lipstick her hair and dress also pictured in that deep red tone to symbolise her sexuality and devil like qualities this almost makes her seam powerful within the painting the overwhelming red is a luring into hell. 

Although this is how she looked within the painting by Otto Dix my interpretation of her would be very different i imagine her to be a lot more messy and dirty. From the painting my inspirations come from the dark eye makeup almost trying to cover up last nights antics. 

Johns, M. (2014). Sally. [online] Pinterest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/sally/ [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

I have created mood boards for inspirations in both the hair and makeup on my Pintrest- http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/anita-berber/ keeping within the 1930's style but adding a slight contemporary twist to fit my interpretation of Anita. I imagine that she would be tiered just come from sleeping around or at a club dancing until the early hours. I picture her to have dark very short hair, taking the inspiration from the image above i wanted to incorporate dark eyes, in the mood board below i have collected images of shiny, gloss look dark eyes i am interested to use this effect to me this symbolises a sweaty eye makeup from the night before i want it to look very layered and smudged i feel that not keeping that perfect look will be quicker to achieve in the 45 minute time set. As i was looking at a very dark smudge gloss look eye i wanted to keep the lip subtle i image that all her lipstick would have a red glossy effect taking inspiration from the colours within the painting although not fresh i want to keep that dirty feel. Furthermore i want to hollow out her cheek bones to give that wasting away look, as though she hasn't eaten in a while from all her partying. 

Keeping in mind our 45 minute time allowance i wanted to keep the hair simple yet effective and true to that of the 20's and 30's when looking at images of Anita i found that she was wearing a lot of head wear either, headbands, hats or beading headwear. I want to look at using a headband style as pictured below as i feel that its not to glamorous and is in keeping with the era. I want to keep the hair very short and dark true to the original Anita Berber but i want the style like the eyes to be slightly wet and greasy.  In keeping with the 30's style i want to have a side parting and create kiss curls around the face but have these slightly frizzy as though they have fallen out slightly from the night before the sitting.

Face Chart

Products:

Illamasqua matt primer 

Illamasqua White foundation 

Kryolan foundation- alabaster, G177, FS38

Illamasqua blush- ambition 

Kryolan: Cigar, Charcoal 

Bare Minerals: smash hit eye 

Naked 2 Pallet: black 

Moxie: game changer, stunner 

False lash effect 

Sleek Brow pallet 

 Hair Chart 

Products: 

Dax gel

Tresemme Hair spray 

Flat Pins 

Bun pins 

Pin tail comb 

Curler 

Headband/gem 

Instructions 

Hair
Step 1: section  from behind the ears and pin out of the way gather the rest into a small pony tail and tuck under pinning into place. Tie around headband and place gem in the centre of the band.

Step 2: curl the longer parts at the front sectioning into two parts on each side (4 curls, 2 each side) comb through fringe, allowing curls to cool apply dax and hairspray onto the curls pin curling into place and pin hiding the pin underneath the head band.

Makeup
Step 1: apply the primer and foundation covering the face and neck, powder over will the illamasqua translucent, apply kryolan eye pallet colour cigar into the cheek bones and under the eye defining further with charcoal.

Step 2: under the eye apply into the inner corners Bare Minerals smash hit to create the red tiered look. blend all over and underneath the lid with charcoal extending the underneath line further than the lash line. Mixing stunner and black from Naked 2 pallet blend into the lash line and creese to create definition and a messy look. Blend this down on the right to create one tear and smudge the eye on the left. Apply mascara.

Step 3: apply game changer all over the lip layering to create a thick glossy effect, block out the brows with foundation and along the top of the brow apply a thin line.

Continuity 1 

Continuity 2

I feel that my continuity was correct and the final two looks from each week look very similar i feel that my design encompassed a very messy look so trying to recreate this was hard in the makeup as i was trying to get the same effect as previously also using a lip gloss on the eye created a good effect but for continuity it wasn't ideal the gloss moved very quickly and gathered in places naturally to re creating this was hard. My models hair was damp on the second week and i feel this effected the pin curls at the side it made the hair very heavy and harder to handle were as in the first attempt i felt i was able to create the pin curls better. I feel that in consideration of the design i need to think more precisely about the products and application for something that will be recreated.