Idea Testing on model

Model 
Name: Amelia Barnes
Age: 20
Eye colour: blue
Eye shape: Average
Skin type: Clear, yellow tones, slightly dry around eye area.
Hair type: Thin, long, darker routes blonde hair.
Allergies: N/A

Hair Design Testing 

I wanted to begin testing my final design idea, as i wanted a clearer idea of how it would work and when giving instructions to my partner i wanted to see if any issues arrived while testing. 

Kiss Curls 

I found these were pretty simple to create i used a lot of the models baby hair and sectioned a very thin amount of hair away from the hair line to use. I used a wax gel covering the hair and then twisted sections of the hair around my finger pulling it off and then sticking these to the face i then applied hair spray directly onto the model skin and kiss curl so it would stick to the face. This worked well and i was happy with the outcome the hairspray meant that the kiss curls stayed in place while the rest of the style was being created. 

Finger Wave
I found the finger wave was the part of the style that i did have a lot of struggle with i found that the hair although very thin was hard to move around as there was a lot of it when trying to create a wet finger wave style. I then decided that it may be easier if i curled that hair as shown in class when creating finger wave bobs, this would then save time and create a easier better effect. I found that my models hair didn't curl well her hair naturally very straight didn't respond to the heat of the tongs very well and when brushing them out they all feel to the bottom of the hair.
I have then gone back in and wet finger waved the hair taking a more hands on effect were i manipulated the hair and applied the grips to were i felt the wave could sit nicely the models hair was greasy so this allowed the style to be created a lot easier, i feel if on the day the models hair is softer i will get my partner to apply a dry wax so the hair is more manageable. I then hair sprayed the waves and they then sat in place.
Although this looked effective i would have liked the waves to be a lot tighter together as shown within my initial design i do like the shine that was achieved by the hair spray and i will look into buying a shine spray to complete the over all look.
I feel that i will discuss my partners abilities on her finger waving skills and if its very hard for her i may have to adapt my design.

Pin curl bob
This i felt worked well within the rest of the design i parted the hair in a deep middle parting, then parting from behind the ears i sectioned of the back with this i tied into a pony tail creating a very sleek, shiny look. I have created pin curls with the hair around the nape of the neck i felt this worked very well with the kiss curls at the front of the style and they were quick and easy to create for time management, Although in this image i have used black pins within my final assessment the pin curls will be a lot more structures and blonde grips will be used and hidden.
Within the images below i didn't finger wave the left hand side of the hair this will be waved to mirror the application above.

With my hair design i feel that i would like the kiss curls at the front to be applied before the finger wave during my practice i found this was the easier way to do this and when the kiss curls were throughly hair sprayed they didn't move although brushing of the hair line has to be done carefully as not to pull the hair off the face.

Eye Brow Testing 
I wanted to test out blocking out of the eye brows onto my model as her brows weren't as thick at mine as shown in the practise of my design on myself i found it a lot easier on conceal them, i wanted to find the right shape further that suited her face.
I created this by applying prick struck over the brows, using a think foundation krolyan pallet and illamasqua translucent powder. layering the foundation and power repeating this until covered.

 I felt that using the models natural eye brow shape suited her face the most i traced along the top of her existing brow to create a soft and subtle look . I am still undecided weather to use this technique within my design i want that classic 20's /30's brow shape but don't want the blocking of the brow to look obvious as this could ruin my design.

Hair design development

I have taken inspiration from my designs i create previously and taken elements i liked from each design as shown above. I wanted to create a shorter bob style very flat to the head to to create that high shine overly done element, i wanted to incorporate the multiple kiss curls from the designs on the right. My models hair for Sally is blonde and long i needed to think of a way i could get the rest of the hair out of the way without bulking out the style so I've added further pin curls at the nape of the neck to tuck in the rest of the hair.  Although i want the over all style to look very shiny and overly done i want it look give the same feel as the rest of the composition, maybe slightly messing this up can portray this creating a perfectly done look and moving it around slightly as though after the argument with cliff within the scene her hair has been messed up by putting her head in her hands?

I want to experiment actually doing this design on my model to make sure that its workable on my models hair and how i will create the high shine feel to portray the fantasy glamour side and then slightly moving the hair to show the digress within the characterisation i am creation for Sally Bowels.

Hair Development

Initially within the hair designs i began looking at using large and decretive accessorise within the hair to give the idea of glamour and that tacky glamour that Sally aspires towards i decided that i wanted to look to my previous reaserch at the structure of hair in the 20's and 30's and the variety of shape and texture they use as i feel i can develop more with this rather than the accessorise.

                        

 'Rumour suggests that the number of kiss curls 
equated to the number of times a girl had been kissed by different boys.'


References:
http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1920s-hairstyles/

Johns, M. (2014). Sally. [online] Pinterest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/sally/ [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

I wanted to use the idea from the previously research i had done on classic 20's and 30's techniques and styles that kiss curls represented the amount of men a woman has kissed i wanted to incorporate this idea into my designs as i feel that the immaturity within Sally's character would have played with kiss curls to show off how many men she can get. I have incorporated kiss curls into all my initial designs below.
Within my hair designs i imagine that it would be very perfectly done, she would have spent hours on her hair before to make her grande entrance back to the Kit Kat club within the scene.

This design plays with the classic finger wave bob style, using a deep side parting something that was very popular within the 20's and 30's, i have incorporated the kiss curls over the tight finger waves to explore the idea.

 I have used a much less defined wave within this design again bringing in the kiss curls onto the face from the softer waves. I wanted this bob to be very blunt at the bottom to exaggerate the sharp style contrasted to the softer waves. I have further added the accessorise element within this design as explored before. 

I wanted this style to be a lot shorter than the others playing with a curving under incorporating the kiss curl like style into the actually structure of the hair, i feel the overcrowd of kiss curls onto the face works very well with my idea. I want the over all texture of the hair to have a very wavy style although it looks frizzy i want the waves to be very defined.

I feel after having looked at all three of my designs i prefer the first and last design i feel the middle design isn't very strong the style dose not explore my idea as well as i feel the waves are a lot softer i want the style to look as though Sally's been sitting there for hours fixing her hair up for her return performance at the club and i feel the other two designs do portray this more. I want to explore these deigns further as i feel either or don't capture what i have envisioned but both hold different elements. I want to experiment playing combining these designs taking the elements i like from each. 

Final Design Makeup

I created this face chart based on my last post developing my ideas on Sally bowels design symbolising both digresses elements with the gaunt face, tiered eyes and smudged makeup combined with the glamorous cheap side of the cabaret world within Berlin using the high shimmer and over the top feel to the overall look. 

 Eye brow shape one

I create the design onto my own face to see how the products would work on skin and found i was very please with the end result i changed the eye brow shape between photographs as i felt the sharp straight brow shape was very harsh and distracting. Although i want the look to be digressed i still want the characterisation of Sally to be pretty.

 Eye brow shape two

I used my natural curve of the top of my own brow for the rest of the images i felt this gave a softer look to the overall images and blended more with the eye shape of makeup. I wanted to keep the eye brows thin but makeup sure the suite the final model to enhance my design.

I am very pleased with this final design i feel i have incorporated all my research of the 20's and 30's era ,traditional makeup looks with research into Berlin and icons of the time i feel that with my contextual research i was able to create an original design for Sally based on a scene within the script due to my own ideas and developing these ideas to fit the context that Sally is in and the context that the script was written from 1920's and 30's Berlin.

Products
Prit stick
illamasqua mar primer
illamasqua white foundation
Kryolan foundation pallet- g177,fs38
illamasqua setting powder
Kryolan eye shadow pallet- cigar, charcoal
Bare minerals eye pallet- smash hit
MAC blusher- spring-sheen
Diamond glow maybelline- 2, 3, 4
BarryM- 72
Rimmel Glam eye black liner
MAC black liner
MAC white liner
Extra 3D lash rimmel black mascara
Kryolan Lip pallet- lc006,lc008,lc009,lc010
Bareminerals lip pencil
Naked 2- black
Sleek pallet- eye brows

Step 1: Brush all the hairs upwards to flatten out the brow, apply print stick in an upward motion and flatten all hairs, allow to dry.

Step 2: mix together illamasqua white, kryolan foundation colours g177 and fs38 with the illamasqua mat primer. Apply all over the face to create flawlness base. concentrate the foundation colour onto the brows to make sure they are fully covered. Apply illamasqua translucent power over the whole face rolling the brush over the brows in particularly. Again using a sponge and roll on the foundation colour onto the brows do this and powder again until covered fully.

Step 3: Apply kryolan eye shadow pallet cigar in the cheek bone blending into the cheek bone area, build this up till there is a soft colour defining the cheek bone apply charcoal to add further definition. Apply MAC blusher onto the centre on the cheek bones and blend out.

Step 4: Apply cigar under neath the eyes and blend out into the creese to create a tiered eye look use the models natural eye shape to create this, add in Bare Minerals smash hit under the eye and blend into the corner of the eye to make it look natural.

Step 5: brush over the whole eye with a soft brush Diamond glow maybelline 2 up to the brow bone and down into the creese under the eye blend down into the cheek, build the colour up. Add 3 into the creese blending down and out underneath the eye. Apply the black liquid liner on top of the lid and MAC pencil black liner on the underneath lid. Use 4 to define further into the creese corner of the eye and underneath extending this further than normal to widen the eye. Add Naked 2 pallet black to finalise and define the creese, corner and underneath lid. Finally apply white MAC liner into the underneath inside lid line. Apply layers of Mascara to create thick full lashes on both top and bottom.

Step 6: using the sleek pallet starting at the top of the natural models eye brow line the top of the brow shape to create a wide eye higher than normal look, but keeping the lip natural to that of the models face.

Step 7: using the Bare Minerals Lip liner create a pointed lip shape if this means going over the lip line than do this but don't make it look fake! create a doll lip with the liner and fill the lip in. Using the Krolyan lip pallet and fill the rest of the lip in blending softly to the outer lip.

Within my final design i would like to use individual lashes to create that fuller effect with the lashes as i would imagine that Sally would have liked to layer on the mascara, mascara was a new thing in the 20's and it was expensive to have i can imagine that Sally would have been brought a mascara and like to layer it on to show that she has all the expensive latest things.

Trials

I felt that i wanted to develop on my original face chart as i discovered during my research glitter wasn't a popular product in the 20's and 30's i wanted to experiment using the idea of portraying digress and sadness within the makeup look but covering this with makeup using the shimmery eye to portray the cabaret world.

I felt that this face chart didn't work as i had imagine it to look i feel this was due to the products i used as these eye shadows didn't have the high shine aspect i would have expected from my design. I felt that the eye shadow shape could be more reminiscent of the defined creese and liner from the 20's and 30's rather than a block colour. I do like the under the eye smudging combined with the tiered eye look i feel this works well in portraying my idea of Sally being distresses but using the shiny bright lights of the performance world and cabaret to cover this up. I further feel the Lip colour works with the green shade of the eyes contrasting and balancing out the composition within the face i also like the darker fading out to the middle to create this pinched in effect. Lastly i would like to create the idea and work with it shown in this face chart of layered and layered mascara large eyes were popular within the 20's and 30's and within many of the descriptions of sally within the book and play its commented on about her very large eyes. 

I wanted to test my design  on myself as i felt that maybe the colours weren't working on the paper but may on my face i felt that it wasn't how i imagined the look to be because of the colours and texture of the shadows i was using. I further need to explore how to block out the eye brows as this is an important element for the overall look. I feel that the darker skin tone wouldn't further be correct for the characterisation of Sally i feel that as an English Rose her skin tone would be pale and a lot lighter than my own. 

I have collected further images that i will use to aid my next face chart in relation to what i need to change from this trial. I feel using these images and my knowledge from previous research i will be able to construct and precise and historically correct face chart. 

Eye shadow Shapes: 

Colour & Texture of High shine Shadows:

 

Blocking out the eye brow:

 

Pale Skin tones:

References:

Johns, M. (2014). Sally. [online] Pinterest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/sally/ [Accessed 03 Nov. 2014].

Google.co.uk, (2014). clara bow - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=clara+bow&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=QzNOVIDeL8TQ7AaJhoCoCQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1284&bih=607 [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

Google.co.uk, (2014). greta garbo - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=greta+garbo&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HS9OVPrQFcer7AafuYDQAg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ#rls=en&tbm=isch&q=greta+garbo+20%27s [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].

Google.co.uk, (2014). greta garbo - Google Search. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=greta+garbo&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HS9OVPrQFcer7AafuYDQAg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ [Accessed 27 Nov. 2014].